Route Selection

Text and pictures © 1990-2024 Guillaume Dargaud
Last updated on 2021/11/05

"If you want the big rewards, you gotta tackle the hard problems. If not, well, I hear there's a good climbing game you can play on your computer." — Lord Slime.

Here's a selection of the best routes we've climbed, those I've featured on my site, super classics, routes that scared me enough that I want to warn others, good memories, hard summits, bailed climbs I have yet to finish, firsts ascents... Click on the first row to sort the table by various methods. The grades are expressed in whatever system is used locally:

the Yosemite 5.something system for the US,
the UIAA roman numerals for Italy,
the arabic numerals for French sport scale,
the F/PD/AD/D/TD/ED French system for overall difficulty,
the Canadian combined ice grading
...

Those grading systems should be familiar to most climbers. As for the Alaska scale or the NZ scale, who knows...? A few of the grades I gave from memory, so they might not be too accurate, others are purposefully different from the guidebooks (particularly for ice).

Personally I think there aren't any 'boring' routes. Either something is dangerous and no one should go on it, or it's as good as a good day of climbing can be. So I gave a personal opinion on those routes, in the form:

***: better than a night with a top model,
**: worth leaving early in the morning while the family ain't watching,
*: better than a day at work or watching TV,
0: there be daemons.

There are a few other abbreviations in this list:

FA: First ascent
SA: Solo ascent
FSA: First solo ascent...

Pass the mouse above the route descriptions to see a picture (if available). Just reload the page if you want to hide all the pictures. Click on the images to view the content of the corresponding CD of images.


Alaska	Denali	West Ridge	Mountain	PD	1995/06	*	Crowded and rather flat. Rather boring.
Alaska	Hunter	West Ridge	Mountain	D	1995/07	**	Varied and steep.
Alaska	Prindle	The Cherry	Trad	5.9 III	1995/08	*	FA on licheny rock.
Antarctica	Icebergs	Any	Ice	AI4	1993/09	*	Nice pictures but the very worst ice in the world.
Arizona	Cochise Stronghold	Welcome to the machine	Sport	5.10 III	2003/12	**	A good route, all bolted (only take one 2 cam) and easier than its grade."
Arizona	Granite Mountain	Dislocation direct	Trad	5.6 II	2002/12	**	Very nice route for a beginning trad leader. Solo.
Arizona	Granite Mountain	Waterstreak Delight	Trad	5.10 III	2003/11	**	Tiny flakes on 1st two pitches, followed by amazingly airy hand traverse under roof. Dangerous for the second.
Arizona	Mnt Lemon	Chimney Rock	Trad	Mostly 5.10	2003/11	**	Several interesting long pitches on large grain granite.
Arizona	The Mace	East face - regular route	Trad	5.9 III	2001/12	**	Nice tower and impressive step to reach the summit.
Briançon	Local cliffs	Various	Trad/Sport	Various	2004	*	Lots of stuff, good for local climbing, almost all season.
Briançon	Meije	Epinards Hallucinogènes	Trad/Sport	6b ED-	1996	***	High altitude, sustained climbing and long route.
Briançon	Tête d'Aval de Montbrison	Voie Kelle	Trad/Sport	7a	1991	**	A friend's route, a bit uneven.
Briançon	Écrins - Pic sans nom	Aurore Nucléaire	Trad	ED	2004	*	Great settings, not very sustained, dangerous start and lot of loose rock for the rappel.
Briançon	Écrins - Sagnette	Soleil glacial	Sport	TD	2004	***	Excellent sustained multipitch climbing with short approach.
Briançon	Écrins - Sialouze	Attaque à main armée	Trad/Sport	ED	2004	**	Great rock, great view, great route but long approach and still crowded.
Briançon	Ailefroide - Palavar	La voie des maitres	Trad/Sport	ED	2004	**	Nice route with short approach, some very cruxy moves.
Briançon	Ailefroide - Palavar	La vie devant soi	Trad/Sport	TD+	2004	**	Just a few hard moves.
Briançon	Ailefroide - Eboulement	Derborence	Sport	ED-	2004	**	A great crack pitch.
Briançon	Ailefroide - Riou	La mèche fatale	Sport	ED-	2004	**	Short approach and a couple good moves.
Briançon	Cerces - Tour Termier	Marmotta impazzita	Sport	ED	2004	**	Don't remember.
Briançon	Cerces - Tête colombe	Encore du Dévers	Sport	ED	2004	**	Very sustained from the start to the end.
Briançon	Cerces - Rocher Robert	Spit mugissant	Sport	TD	2004	**	Interesting but not very long.
Briançon	Cerces - 3eme tour de Queyrellin	Les dents de Cirielle	Sport	ED	2004	**	Some excellent and very sustained pitches.
Briançon	Tenailles de Montbrison	Various	Sport	TD/ED	2004	**	Several excellent and similar routes, most of them well bolted.
Calabria	Polino	New routes	Trad	6a/b II	1999/07	*	Some FA on virgin limestone.
California	Joshua Tree	Various	Trad	Plenty	2003/11	**	Plenty of nice routes but far from each others, so it's hard to do more than 4~5 pitches per day.
California	Lake Tahoe	Eagle Lake Cliff	Trad	5.10 mostly	2003/07	*	Some very nice trad lines in a sport climbing setting.
California	Lover's Leap	Hospital Corner	Trad	5.10a	2003/07	*	Nice dihedral.
California	Lover's Leap	The Groove	Trad	5.8	2003/07	*	Nice wake up with the shortest approach possible.
California	Lover's Leap	Traveler's buttress	Trad	5.9	2003/07	*	Nice exposed route.
California	Needles	Airy Interlude	Trad	5.10a II	2003/10	**	Exposed hand traverse.
California	Needles	Thin Ice	Trad	5.10b II	2003/10	**	Beautiful area away from the crowds, Yosemite-like cracks.
California	Sugarloaf	Various	Trad	Various	2003/07	**	Some excellent lines but we couldn't do the upper pitches due to excess wind.
California	Suicide	Various	Trad	5.10	2003/11	**	Great rock, a bit runout.
California	Tahquiz	Open Book	Trad	5.9	2003/11	*	A Royal Robins route, so expect it to be hard for the grade...
California	Tuolumne	Fairview Dome - Lucky Streaks	Trad	5.10d III	2003/08	**	Sustained on smooth knobs, interesting.
California	Tuolumne	Fairview Dome - Regular Route	Trad	5.9 III	2003/07	*	One or two interesting pitches only, too crowded and polished at the base.
Chamonix	Argentière	Petit Viking	Mixed	AI3 III	1991/01	*	Long approach and still crowded.
Chamonix	Dent du Géant	Normal route	Mountain	4+ D	1998/08	**	Incredibly crowded by totally deficient 'climbers'.
Chamonix	Mt Blanc	Pilier Central du Freney	Mountain	6b ED	1998/08	***	Mythical highest rock route on Mt Blanc, very steep and varied. Quite a testpiece.
Colorado	Black Canyon	Scenic Cruise	Trad	5.10+ V	2002/09	***	Long and incredibly sustained, routes don't come any better than this.
Colorado	Boulder - Third Flatiron	Standard East Face	Trad	5.4 II	2002/11	*	Too boring if you can lead above 5.4, too runnout if you cannot.
Colorado	Breckenridge	Lincoln Falls	Ice	WI3	2002/02	**	Lots of possibilities, crowded.
Colorado	Climbing	Shelf Road	Sport	Various	2002/01	*	Main limestone area in Colorado, plenty of stuff.
Colorado	Eldorado Canyon	Green Spur	Trad	5.9 II	2001/08	**	Not as crowded as the Yellow one.
Colorado	Eldorado Canyon	Naked Edge	Trad	5.11a III	2003/12	*	Crowded, way harder than the grade, some dicey pro, all polished and overall I didn't enjoy it.
Colorado	Eldorado Canyon	Yellow Spur	Trad	5.9 III	2001/08	**	Good but crowded.
Colorado	Fort Collins	Bouldering	Boulder	Various	2002/01	*	Used to be better but most of it is now destroyed or off-limits until they reopen the dams.
Colorado	Garden of the Gods	Misc	Sport	Various	2001/05	*	Scary soft sandy rock but magical settings.
Colorado	Mt Elbert	Normal	Ski	MSA	2002/04	*	Late spring slush on the highest summit of Colorado.
Colorado	Ouray	Horsetail falls	Ice	WI4 II	2002/01	**	Longer than the Ice Park.
Colorado	RMNP - Hallet	Culp-Bossier	Trad	5.8 III	2002/01	**	Good long route.
Colorado	RMNP - Loch Vale	Mixed Feelings	Mixed	M5	2000/12	**	Single hard pitch with easier stuff nearby.
Colorado	RMNP - Longs Peak	Casual Route	Trad	5.10 IV	2002/02	***	Visible from the entire Front Range and well worth the drooling: steep, intimidating, long, high up, a long way from the parking lot...
Colorado	RMNP - Longs Peak	Fields Chimney	Trad	5.8	2002/02	0	Heinous mistake.
Colorado	RMNP - Longs Peak	Kiener's	Trad	5.4 III	2001/08	*	From Broadway to the top of Longs Peak.
Colorado	RMNP - Longs Peak	Lambs Slide	Mountain	II AI2	2002/06	*	Snow/ice gully that gets you to Broadway, worth doing in good conditions.
Colorado	RMNP - Longs Peak	Stetner's Ledges	Trad	5.7+ II	2001/08	**	Nice way to get to Broadway, watch for rockfalls on the right.
Colorado	RMNP - Lumpy Ridge	Mainliner	Trad	5.9	2001/09	**	Classic of Sundance.
Colorado	RMNP - Lumpy Ridge	Sidetrack	Trad	5.9	2001/09	**	Just left and better than Mainliner, more sustained and runout.
Colorado	RMNP - Lumpy Ridge	The Nose	Trad	5.10a	2002/04	**	Interesting.
Colorado	RMNP - Lumpy Ridge	Turn Korner	Trad	5.10a	2002/10	**	Offwidth not as bad as its reputation.
Colorado	RMNP - Mt Alice	Central Ramp	Trad	5.8 III	2002/07	**	Remote good route.
Colorado	RMNP - Petit Grépon	West	Trad	5.9 III	2002/01	**	Crowded.
Colorado	RMNP - Spearhead	Syke-Sicle	Trad	5.9+ III	2002/01	**	Flaky.
Colorado	RMNP	All Mixed up	Ice	AI3 M3	2002/01	**	Easy if good conditions.
Colorado	RMNP	Grace Falls	Ice	AI4	2002/01	**	Nice playground.
Colorado	RMNP	West Gully	Ice	AI3	2002/01	**	Long approach for a short easy climb.
Colorado	Silverton	Stairways to Heaven	Ice	WI4	2003/01/03	**	Excellent ice climb. Solo in 1h. Avalanche prone.
Colorado	Vail	The Fang	Ice	WI5+	2002/02	***	Mythical (if it doesn't collapse on you).
Dakota	Mt Rushmore	Various	Sport	5.8	2002/09	**	Nice relaxed place. Smooth.
Dakota	Needles	Eye of the Needle	Trad	5.10	2002/09	**	Magical and runout. The inside for the picture, the outside for the runout factor.
Dolomite	Civetta - Torre di Babele	Goedeke/Rien	Trad	6a	1999/08	*	Runout old pitons.
Dolomite	Civetta - Torre Venezia	West face	Trad	6a	1999/08	**	Good route.
Dolomite	Lavaredo - Piccolissima	Cassin	Trad	6b	1999/08	*	Scarry runouts on old pitons and pinch holds.
Dolomite	Lavaredo	Dibona	Trad	5 D	1999/08	*	Easy on lots of very loose ground. Quick.
Dolomite	Lavaredo	Spigolo Giallo	Trad	6b	1999/08	**	Good and crowded.
Ecuador	Chimborazo	Normal Route	Mountain	PD	1994/08	*	Snow slog.
Ecuador	Chimborazo	New Route	Mountain	PD+	1994/08	*	Just another snow slog.
Ecuador	Cotopaxi	Normal Route	Mountain	PD	1994/08	*	Snow slog.
Ecuador	Iliniza	Normal route	Mountain	PD+	1994/08	*	Somewhat more interesting than the other volcanoes.
France	Ceuse	Various	Sport	Various	2004	***	Major sport climbing, not much easy stuff. No climbing in winter.
France	Fontainebleau	Various	Bouldering	Various	1990-92	**	Every boulder you could wish for.
Gran Sasso	Corno Grande	Canale Bissolati	Ski	OSA	1994/12	**	Classic hard ski descent. Called the 'killer chute' for good reasons.
Gran Sasso	Corno Grande	Diretta Consiglio	Trad	TD VI-	1994	*	Fairly good with some loose stuff at the end.
Gran Sasso	Corno Piccolo	Iskra	Trad	D- V-	1994	*	Super classic crowded easy route.
Gran Sasso	Corno Piccolo	NE ridge	Trad	AD- IV-	1994	*	Quickest descent.
Gran Sasso	Corno Piccolo	Spigolo a destra della crepa	Trad	TD VI-	1994	**	Long and good.
Gran Sasso	Fiamme di Pietra	Via del Tetto	Trad	D+ V	1996	**	Excellent rock, long approach.
Gran Sasso	Fiamme di Pietra	Via Gervasutti	Trad	TD- VI-	1996	**	Excellent rock.
Gran Sasso	Intermésoli	Conca del Sambuco	Ski	BSA	1994/12	*	Remote ski descent.
Gran Sasso	Monolito	Ura mawashi tobi geri jodan	Trad	TD+ VI	1994	**	Nice way to reach the Monolito. Offwidth..
Gran Sasso	Monolito	Via Di Federico-De Luca	Trad	TD V+	1994	**	Nicest (and easiest) route on the Monolito.
Gran Sasso	Paretone	Cresta Nord	Trad	D IV+	1994/09	**	Complete remoteness on this gigantic route. The rock has an underserved bad reputation.
Gran Sasso	Paretone	Diretta Alessandri-Leone	Trad	TD V+	1994	*	Isolation and austerity.
Gran Sasso	Paretone	Haas-Acitelli	Mountain	AI2 III	1997/04	*	2nd longest route in the Appenines. Avalanche gully...
Gran Sasso	Paretone	Janetta	Mountain	AI2 M2 IV	1996/04	*	Longest route in the Appenines, facing east gets the sun early.
Gran Sasso	Paretone	Tre Vette	Mountain	D IV	1994/06	*	Traverse of all the summits, very long and lots of loose rock.
Gran Sasso	Prima Spalla	Meridionalizziamoci	Trad	TD+ VI+	1996	**	Good recent route, mostly slab and finger holes. FSA.
Gran Sasso	Prima Spalla	Stefano Tribioli	Trad	TD+ VI+	1997	**	Classic slab.
Gran Sasso	Seconda Spalla	Icosaedro	Trad	TD+ VII-	1994	**	Classic slab.
Himalaya	ChoOyu	Normal route	Mountain	VI	2000/10	**	8201m for a big expedition without sherpa or oxygen.
Idaho	City of Rocks	Various	Trad+Sport	Various	2003/07	**	Short approaches, good mix of trad and sport routes.
Idaho	Sawtooth Mountain	Astro Elephant	Trad	5.10b III	2003/07	**	A sustained route with too many traverses and routefinding difficulties to make it a true classic.
Idaho	Sawtooth Mountain	SuperSlab	Trad	5.10 II	2003/07	*	Incredibly smooth routes on old manky bolts.
Mars	Decision	Future Route	Fiction	Imaginary	2100	?	Fiction.
Nevada	Red Rocks	Crimson Chrysalis	Trad	5.8+ III	2001/10	**	Classic with too many bolts and too many people waiting in line at the base.
Nevada	Red Rocks	Dark Shadows	Trad	5.8- II	2001/10	**	Good short easy classic.
Nevada	Red Rocks	Eagle Dance	Sport	5.10- IV	2001/12	**	Good and remote.
Nevada	Red Rocks	Epinephrine	Trad	5.9 V	2001/10	***	Fantastic(ally strenuous) route.
Nevada	Red Rocks	Inti Watana	Trad	5.10 III	2003/10	**	12 pitches of mostly bolted climbing after a long approach and thus away from crowds.
Nevada	Red Rocks	Levitation 29	Trad/Sport	5.11 IV	2001/12	***	Very sustained excellent face climbing.
Nevada	Red Rocks	Power Failure	Trad	5.10 II	2003/10	**	3 pitches of excellent trad intermixed with bolts; take a light rack and combine it with Unimpeacheable Groping for a *** day.
Nevada	Red Rocks	Prince of Darkness	Sport	5.10c III	2001/10	**	Very sustained face climbing.
Nevada	Red Rocks	Resolution Arête	Trad	5.11+ V	2003/10	**	Probably the longest route at Red Rocks. Disconnected crack systems; very time consuming if you want to pull all 24 pitches in a day. No bolt, no belay.
Nevada	Red Rocks	Rock Warrior	Trad	5.10R III	2003/10	**	Just like the Prince of Darkness and a few meters to its left, but without the bolts! Constant runout and good climbing.
Nevada	Red Rocks	Solar Slab	Trad	5.6 III	2001/12	**	Long easy slab, great winter route.
Nevada	Red Rocks	Unimpeachable Groping	Sport	5.10 III	2003/10	**	7 pitches of excellent fully bolted face climbing; combine it with Power Failure for a *** day.
Nevada	Red Rocks	Yellow Brick Road	Trad	5.10 III	2001/10	***	Very sustained face climbing.
New Zealand	Aspiring	South West Ridge	Mountain	NZ3-	1994/02	**	Some boulder moves on the ridge.
New Zealand	Elie de Baumont	Mt Green	Mountain	NZ2	2000/02	*	Nice traverse, dangerous descent.
New Zealand	Malte Brun	Full West Ridge	Mountain	NZ3	2000/02	*	Fairly good rock.
New Zealand	Mt Cook	Copland Pass	Mountain	NZ	1994/02	*	A hike with crampons.
New Zealand	Mt Cook	East Ridge	Mixed	NZ4	1994/02	**	Very long mixed route, you'd better be ready to solo a good part of it to save time.
New Zealand	Mt Cook	Linda Glacier	Mountain	NZ3	1994/02	*	Dangerous but quickest way down.
New Zealand	Mt Cook	Porter Col	Mountain	NZ2	2000/02	0	Insanely dangerous.
New Zealand	Mt Cook	West Ridge	Mountain	NZ3+	2000/02	***	Very nice long rock route, but how do you get down ?
New Zealand	Mt Tasman	Silberhorn	Mountain	NZ3	1994/02	**	Very scenic.
New Zealand	Sefton	North Ridge	Mountain	NZ3+	2005/12	**	Good technical climbing, long descent.
New Zealand	Taranaki-Egmont	Trails	Hiking	NZ	1994/02	*	Hike.
New Zealand	Tasman	North Soulder	Mountain	NZ2	2000/02	**	Easy, scenic and safe.
Oregon	Smith Rocks	Dihedral/Morning Glory Wall	Sport	Various	2003/07	*	Good sport climbing but nothing earth shattering.
Oregon	Smith Rocks	Lower Gorge	Trad	5.10 and above	2003/07	**	Excellent single pitch cracks.
Oregon	Smith Rocks	Mesa Verde	Sport	Various	2003/07	*	Climbing on pebbles sticking out of a mud wall or so it seems.
Peru	Alpamayo	Ferrari direct	Mountain	AI2 D	1995/07	**	Well worth the pictures...
Peru	Cashan	West side	Mountain	4+ AI2 D	1995/07	**	Very hard and hair-raising final ridge.
Peru	Chacraraju	American Direct	Mountain	AI5 ED ?	1995/08	*	Insane snow overhangs on top.
Peru	Chopicalqui	Normal Route	Mountain	AD	1995/08	**	Nice view on Huascaran from there.
Peru	Huascaran North	French Direct	Mountain	5+ AI2 A2 TD+	1995/08	***	Great long varied route. FSA.
Peru	Huascaran South	Escudo	Mountain	AI2 D	1995/07	**	Can't get any more direct. Solo.
Peru	Ranrapalca	Slovenian Route	Mountain	4 AI2 D+	1995/08	**	Interesting.
Peru	Tocllaraju	West Ridge	Mountain	AI2 D	1995/08	**	Nice pyramid. Solo.
Sardegna	Goloritze	Aguglia	Trad	6b II	1998/05	*	A large rock on the beach presenting the hardest normal route in Italy.
Utah	Capitol Reef	Various	Trad	Various	2003/11	*	Some single pitches of sandstone crack, great potential but not very developped yet.
Utah	Moab - Ancient Art	Stolen Chimney	Trad	5.8 A0 II	2001/05	***	Incredibly shaped summit well worth the soft rock.
Utah	Moab - Arches National Park	Owl rock	Trad	5.8 I	2001/05	**	How to impress the tourists.
Utah	Moab - Bridger Jack Spires	East face of Sunflower Tower	Trad	5.10+ II	2003/11	**	A boulder move on the 1st pitch, a great hand crack that turns into an off-finger crux and a sandy final pitch.
Utah	Moab - Castleton tower	Kor-Ingalls	Trad	5.9 III	2001/05	**	Nice varied route on the most famous tower.
Utah	Moab - Indian Creek	Supercrack	Trad	5.10 I	2001/05	***	The most famous crack in the world. Stand in line and trade your cams.
Utah	Moab - Lighthouse	Lonely Vigil	Trad	5.10 III	2003/11	**	A funky first pitch followed by a wild stem pitch and more.
Utah	Moab - Moses Tower	Primrose dihedral	Trad	5.10+ A1 III	2002/10	***	Sustained and varied testpiece.
Utah	Moab - Rectory	Fine Jade	Trad	5.11 III	2003/11	***	Excellent climb on great rock with 3 hard and very different pitches.
Utah	Moab - Sister Superior	Jah Man	Trad	5.10 II	2002/10	**	Good but too short.
Utah	Moab - South Six Shooter	South face	Trad	5.6 II	2001/05	*	Introduction to desert towers.
Utah	Moab - Washer Woman	In search of suds	Trad	5.10 III	2003/11	**	Very soft rock on most of the route but great views on the Colorado basin.
Utah	Zion	Iron Messaiah	Trad	5.10 III	2003/11	**	Good all free trad route in Zion.
Utah	Zion	North East buttress of Angel Landing	Trad	5.11R III	2003/11	**	Very sustained, very good, quite runout and really no more than 5.10, but be solid if you go.
Verdon	Escalès	La Demande	Sport	6a IV	1990/04	***	Long and old classic.
Verdon	Escalès	La Ula	Trad/Sport	6b IV	1991/04	***	Long and old classic with a hard offwidth crux.
Verdon	Escalès	Roumagaou	Trad	6b III	1991/04	*	Varied.
Wyoming	Devil's Tower	El Matador	Trad	5.11a	2001/09	***	Incredible stemming.
Wyoming	Devil's Tower	Various	Trad	Various	2002/09	**	Lots of very good rock, very good cracks and very dumb tourists.
Wyoming	Dome Rock	Various	Trad	Various	2003/04	*	Nice lonely place on a good granite similar to Vedauwoo. Drive to it from the closest (forbidden) dirt road.
Wyoming	Fremont Canyon	Various	Trad+Sport	Various	2003/04	0	Rock either brittle or slippery. Either too hot or too cold. Didn't like the place at all.Wyoming
Wyoming	Vedauwoo	MRC	Trad	5.9 II	2002/06	*	From bloody offwidth to better things.
Wyoming	Wind River	Pingora	Trad	5.2 II	2003/07	**	Beautiful setting, good rock. Quite crowded for such a remote place.
Yosemite	El Capitan	East Buttress	Trad	5.10b III	1995/08	**	Easiest free way up El Cap.
Yosemite	El Capitan	Salathé Wall	Big Wall	5.10 A2 VI	2003/10	**	Harder than the Nose with a lot more chimneys (you'll need a #6 friend on at least 5 pitches).
Yosemite	El Capitan	Triple Direct	Big Wall	5.9 A2 VI	1995/08	***	Nose variation with more free climbing.
Yosemite	Half Dome	Regular NW face	Big Wall	5.10 A1 V	2003/09	**	26 great pitches doable in a day if you are fast.
Yosemite	Half Dome	Snake Dyke	Trad	5.7 R	1995/08	***	Pure slab. Solo.
Yosemite	Higher Cathedral Spire	Regular route	Trad	5.9	1995/08	**	Nice.
Yosemite	Higher Cathedral	Braille Book	Trad	5.8 III	1995/08	**	Not so easy, slippery start.
Yosemite	Higher Cathedral	East buttress	Trad	5.10c III	1995/08	**	Good but crowded.
Yosemite	Lost Arrow Spire	Lost Arrow Tip	Aid	5.8 A2	1995/08	**	Exposed tyrolean traverse.
Yosemite	Middle Cathedral	Central Pillar of Frenzy	Trad	5.9 III	2003/09	**	Nice but crowded; take the time to (try to) top-rope the Bircheff-Williams dihedral as you rap down.
Yosemite	Middle Cathedral	DNB	Trad	5.10b IV	1995/08	*	Hard, long and quite runout.
Yosemite	Middle Cathedral	East Buttress	Trad	5.10a III	2003/10	*	Incredibly crowded, even using the variations to pass.
Yosemite	Middle Cathedral	Stoner's Highway	Trad	5.10b III	2003/10	**	Pure face climb on tiny pockets, bolted but runout, many traverses for the second\; interesting and exciting.
Yosemite	North Dome	Crest Jewel Direct	Sport	5.10d III	2003/09	**	The longest slab I have ever seen, never a hold, never a ledge, never a crack; you either love it or hate it. A bit runout but safe. Absolutely worth doing once...
Yosemite	Reeds Pinnacle	Reeds Pinnacle	Trad	5.10 II	2003/08	**	A good complete route (you must do the last offwidth pitch though); also do the excellent Lunatic Fringe and Stone Groove nearby.
Yosemite	Royal Arches	Serenity Crack+Sons of Yesterday	Trad	5.10d	1995/08	**	Hard, sustained, crowded, interesting.
Yosemite	Sentinel	Steck-Salathé	Trad	5.10b IV	2003/09	**	12 pitches of offwidth or squeeze out of 15, burly but not as hard as the story goes. Worth doing if only for the infamous 'Narrows'.
Yosemite	Shultz' Ridge	Moratorium	Trad	5.11b III	2003/10	**	A sustained dihedral that takes you to the base of the East Ridge of El Cap, why not keep climbing?